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Copenhagen Fashion Week: Astrid Andersen AW18 Womenswear shows that the past lives on

Oluwaseun Matiluko

05 Feb 2018

Faulkner famously said “the past is never dead, it’s not even the past” and Astrid Andersen’s latest offering seems to have held onto that mantra steadfast with its new collection, which was first previewed in Denmark, Astrid Andersen’s native country, during Copenhagen Fashion Week.

Anderson’s collection takes us back to the 80s, back to the days of the Buffalo-era in London, and sprinkles in some modern twists. The Buffalo movement in London was born out of the work of stylist Ray Petri and championed by the multicultural and creative Brits making movements at that time.

Petri’s work was revolutionary, often challenging gender, age and racial stereotypes. Meanwhile, whilst still retaining some elements of androgyny, Anderson’s collection feels like a very toned down version of Buffalo fashion; instead of shock and excitement it evokes fun and familiarity.

Although Anderson has commented that Buffalo, to her, means “breaking all boundaries”, many of the pieces reflect silhouettes that we have seen in other collections this year, such as the wraparound coat and the puffer gilet. Nevertheless, one can’t deny her amazing intersection of the old with the new that was also felt in her A/W menswear show, where she again had Georgia Howorth walk juxtaposed with the original photos by Mark Lebon of her mother, Buffalo model Jeny Howarth. This, coupled with the quirky Stetson hats, the yellow check and the bright golds of this collection have brought the fun of the 80s back into the 21st century.