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LFW: Marta Jakubowski presents a vivid and playful A/W18 show

Emma Blake Morsi and Kiran Gidda

17 Feb 2018

Marta Jakubowski sets the late-’80s to early-’90s-inspired theme by opening with a slow rendition of Whitney Houston’s I’m Every Woman whilst whispers are hushed and lights go down. Once Houston reaches a crescendo the spotlights reveal the first AW18 number – a seasonal cherry red denim two piece with white top stitching. This top-stitched denim look follows through in various on-trend colours, including a vibrant green and black shearling jacket.

The models hair and make-up is kept to a minimal classic look, with wind-swept wavy curls and a bounce to match the music, which, by this point, is simply I’m Every Woman on repeat. Although the monotonous music would typically suggest a dreary ambience, the models’ playful struts hark back to the ’80s exaggerated, statement ‘stomping’.

Reminiscent of the ’90s, with its large eye drop and doorknocker earrings in solid gold, accessories are kept to a minimum and used as token pieces in Jakubowski’s AW18 show. It features heavy top-weight blazers and shirting with defined, angular shoulders. Décolletage is prominent throughout and reveals wired bras in a contrasting accent colour.

Silhouettes are sculpted with varying lightweight, large and layered asymmetrical frills and pleats. This once again echos that pleating is here to stay. The collection also suggests cold shoulders are still relevant and are incorporated into woollen jumpers and low-hanging silky dresses.