Martine Rose is back with exaggerated tailoring for AW17
12 Jan 2017
Martine Rose took us on a literal journey for her AW17 collection. Leaving sombre central London, pre-tube strike, to trek up to Seven Sisters to the Latin Village (better known as Seven Sisters Indoor Market). A venue that has recently come under threat of closure, Martine wanted to take the fashion crowd to a place they most likely have never stepped foot in, to highlight and celebrate this diverse part of London.
Now on to the clothes. This season Martine went back to her roots of subverting male archetypes, focusing primarily on the uniforms of bankers, office workers and bus drivers. Tailoring was the key word of the collection – a new look for Martine. We saw suiting and shirts in heavy wool contrasted with bright satins and subversive leather. Proportions were either exaggerated (check out the super wide leg trousers) or cinched with a high rise double waistband to create a feminine silhouette that diversified the idea of masculine tailoring.
Sportswear was a motif throughout the collection with cagoules decorated with the designer’s name that deconstructed at the sleeves, and Nikes on the model’s feet. The bum bag was giving a new look in a leather boxy shape that was reminiscent of old bus conductors, and tie pins and bank teller name tags were used to anchor the collection back to its office roots.
After her hiatus from the official schedule (her last catwalk being SS13), we are glad to say one of our favourite menswear designers is back. And she is back, not just to show us she is one of the best menswear designers in London, but also that fashion doesn’t have to be super grand or even in Central.
Appreciating another culture and embracing a space, isn’t just functional, it’s a community. Donate to help fund the Latin Village campaign here.
Images via Catwalking.com for Martine Rose