Holly Fulton @ BFC Show Space
Holly Fulton mixes earthy with luxury in her latest collection inspired by the natural landscape and the dreamy David Inshaw painting The Badminton Game (1972-3). Fulton expertly incorporated chic paisley organza motifs, silk embroidery and opulent velvets into the collection of wide-coloured coats cinched in at the waist, cable knit turtlenecks, jacquard flares, bubble skirts and Chelsea boots. The down-to-earth palette of dusty pinks, mossy greens, and buttercup yellows was a breath of fresh air in the concrete jungle that is Brewer Street Carpark, as was seeing the gorgeous model, Mame, appear on the runway wearing her hair natural!
Words by Hannah Gooding
Faustine Steinmetz AW Presentation @ BFC Topshop Show Space
A show for the senses, Faustine Steinmetz, takes us on a journey of creativity in the AW16 presentation.
Since first seeing Faustine’s reworked furry Levi’s in 2013, I have been a fan. She has become one of the most highly anticipated designers for LFW, due to her dedicated crafts-‘woman’-ship and genius presentation.
This season was no different. Aimed at focusing on textile and structure, Faustine created an art gallery; every piece was a coveted exhibition. Accompanied with an audio guide, the audience was walked through the collection, encouraged to think about different ways of seeing the clothing. The pieces, consisting of mohair, cotton and metallic yarns, are intended to be deconstructed in your mind and re-invented to your own style.
All I know is next season purchase will now consist of an orange mohair midi skirt. Styling tips please?
Teatum Jones AW Show @ Mary Ward House
Carrying on their signature of taking a real human story to build their collection. Teatum Jones channels Agnes Moirragh Bernard for this season: an English nun in 1892 who founded Foxford woollen mills. Agnes’ vision was to create hope through a self-sustaining future in a time of famine; a message that flowed throughout the catwalk as music by Jon Cox was layered with readings of sustainability.
The clothes themselves were beautifully executed. The fringed pattern midi skirt was a standout piece, paired with simple knitwear with elegant cut-outs. The tonal palette breathed autumn with mustards and burgundy all the way through to midnight blues.
Always good to note that Teatum Jones is one of the only shows that has an equal WoC colour model ratio. We salute you.
Palmer//Harding AW presentation @ Mary Ward House
Palmer//Harding used this season to re-visit the work of Nathan Peter’s. This is obviously present in the settings: low lighting with wooden crates to create the anti-digital aesthetic so characteristic of Peter’s work.
The clothes themselves acted as a statement against the digital onslaught we are facing. In simple terms, the message was: wear more to cover your identity. The use of layering was heavily present throughout the collection, creating an oddly fluid motion collection that didn’t appear bulky. The asymmetric hemlines and wraparound skirts acted as a feminine contrast to the boxy silhouettes that dominated.
If saying no to the digital world means looking this sleek, sign me up now.
Words by Dinah Shaw