Clio Peppiatt @ The Vinyl Factory
Clio Peppiatt’s AW16 show was the youthful, girl power fashion fix that we had longed for so early in the morning. Peppiatt provided her audience with an audacious amount of colour, leather and faux fur to get the modern 90s fangirl’s heart racing. A small location for an intimate show, the motel-inspired set played with female sexuality. It was all about women being seductive and rebellious and not caring whilst doing it. Peppiatt’s models exuded the charm that we want from our key staples for the season with bomber jackets, silk pyjama suits and cashmere jumpers in the spotlight. Her attention to detail was everything, from the fluffy and flirty heels to the diamond encrusted cleavage covering; we were definitely in love.
Typical Freaks @ Freemasons Hall
A punk rock delight, Typical Freaks had our adrenaline pumping. The AW16 collection designs set the tone with baby pinks and neon blues creating an acidic thrill like no other. Customised Dr Martens as well as graphic prints and bleached pink and green hair brought the kawaii punk concept to fruition. Playful and vibrant, the Typical Freaks show broke away from conventional fashion presentations and made the audience want to be a part of their group.
David Ferreira @ Freemasons Hall
David Ferreira’s Opulent Child AW16 collection was all about luxury and elegance combined with the creativity of today’s modern woman. Ferreira used both his inspiration from women who are adored today such as those from Heathers, Pink Ladies and Clueless, while also drawing out what can be seen as the unattainable luxury, from women of royalty such as Queen Marie Antoinette and Versailles. This could be seen in pieces that played daringly with space. Models strutted down the runway in fitted balloon style attire all the way to the distinguished looks from blood red dresses accompanied with studs to silk blouses with a fluffy pink trim. Ferreira played with couture techniques combined with an already established presence that we see so often in fashion today.
Little Shilpa @ The Vinyl Factory
With a soundtrack of techno music and a projection of intergalactic space beaming behind the models, Little Shilpa was about creating an other-worldly experience through the use of interpretative dance and asymmetrical designs. Springtime pastels presented on pieces such as jumpers, sweatpants, and thick skirts, together with the layering of lace helped to add depth to the AW16 Little Shilpa collection. Little Shilpa presented a charming and almost delicate collection that somehow complimented the music being released behind the audience.
Pam Hogg @ Freemasons Hall
Pam Hogg left little to disappoint whilst also keeping true to the theme that we’ve seen throughout LFW which is women can do whatever they want, in whatever they want and have fun with it. An ode to Bowie and rock stars before him, Hogg had our eyes glued to centre stage as her models strutted down the runway in figure hugging latex, seductively sheer one-pieces and colourful starry printed Hogg Couture jackets all to the beat of the rock and roll sound. Motörhead’s religiously catchy Ace of Spades helped to solidify the carefree yet important essence that Hogg’s designs exude, which is that there are no rules and if you come across them, feel free to break them.
Words by Savannah Small-Swaby
Le Kilt @ The Union Club
The Le Kilt AW16 presentation was held in this romantic, Georgian townhouse, a stone’s throw away from the brand’s namesake: The 1970s Le Kilt club. Samantha McCoach continues to explore her Scottish roots in her capsule collection, pairing patchwork kilts with belts worn as collars, two-tone knits made in the traditional Sanquhar technique, all-black tam o’ shanters and brothel creepers (made in collaboration with George Cox footwear).
So what does it take to wear Le Kilt? What is most important to the brand, when casting, is finding models that are united in representing the cool youthfulness of the brand, but are still strikingly different. “Each Le Kilt girl is unique” casting director Elle Korhaliller tells gal-dem during the presentation. And this is not just a platitude, it’s true, they each have such a strong look in their own right. #goals
Ryan LO @ BFC Show Space
“Who is that girl I see. Staring straight back at me?” Why it’s Ryan LO’s doll-faced models dressed up to the nines in ruffled tulle, felted wool coats adorned with peach blossoms, vibrant butterfly jumpers, faux fur stoles and pom-pom socks. Sound-tracked by Reflections from the Disney classic Mulan, LO’s AW16 show featured his signature kitsch style and bright colours in an exploration of the richness of Chinese history.
Fyodor Golan @ BFC Show Space
I somehow ended up sitting on the front row of the Fyodor Golan show and it was wild! The design duo’s AW16 collection was awash with neon, space-age metallic brogues, colourful fishnets, and lively prints featuring giant Coca-Cola logos, sexy pin-up girls, and Botticelli’s Birth of Venus masterpiece. Out came model Yana Dobroliubova with a clean-shaven scalp in a long printed coat which prompted audible murmurs from the audience and caused a foray of hands to start snapping more ferociously on their phones. Her unique look caused quite a stir amongst the seasoned crowd! The show ended with the opening to Beyoncé’s Formation and my heart skipped a beat.
Words by Hannah Gooding